Waterstop has a singular purpose: To prevent the passage of fluids across and along concrete joints. This page is dedicated to all things waterstop, as used to seal joints in concrete construction. Feel free to post any comments or questions and I will answer promptly.
Tuesday, May 09, 2017
How to Weld Plastic Waterstop
An initial warm up time of approximately 15 minutes is required to heat up splicing iron to the required temperature. Preheat Iron up to the following:
It is recommended to verify temperature using an external thermometer.
NOTE: The Peel and Stick Teflon® Cover is to remain on the iron during the welding process. DO NOT REMOVE.
CAUTION: Too high of a temperature will result in damage to waterstop welds, splicing iron cover, and possibly splicing iron.
1. Always cut square ends before welding waterstops. Never weld to extruded ends. Use flat work table to create field splices. Work area should be solid and have access to power supply and have jigs and fixtures to aid splicing.
2. Cut ends square, using a razor knife or circular saw equipped with a carbide tipped blade (10” diameters with 40 teeth) to ensure matching edges.
3. Preheat the iron to the desired temperature ranges. Place iron between butt ends. Keep waterstops in place until approximately 3/16” bead forms on each side of waterstops. Quickly remove splicing iron and gently press waterstops ends together until they bond (approximately 3 to 5 minutes or cool to touch). Cold water may be sprayed on waterstops to expedite the bond.